I’m not the kind of person who needs Bessie the Cow’s entire biography to enjoy my steak. I don’t actively seek out “green” restaurants or entrées featuring local ingredients. When I go out to a nice restaurant, I just want to know the people there value good food as much as I do, and it is crystal clear that everyone at Epiphany Café loves and respects the food they serve.
The restaurant is listed as “New American Farm-to-Table Cuisine.” I was expecting a posh, modern atmosphere, similar to an Apple store. When I walked in, however, I was comforted by the brick walls and dark wood furniture. Obviously, it was not the snobby hipster’s paradise I was expecting. The place felt more like a Boston tavern, constructed without frills to direct your attention to the food on your plate and the company at your table.
The menu is split into two sections: “Small Plates” and “Big Plates.” My waitress described the small plates as appetizer-sized and the big plates as full entrées. From a starving college student’s perspective, I must say the portions are a bit small. I was satisfied after the bread service, one entrée and some dessert, but for those with large appetites, I recommend ordering two small plates. Be adventurous, and mix it up a little. You will not be bringing home any leftovers, so savor your meal.
I ordered the “Surf and Turf” big plate, which came with steak, shrimp and short rib hash. My steak was served in thick, neatly arranged medallions. I asked for medium-rare, and I received a textbook example of medium-rare. The steak was tender and juicy enough to stand alone, no sauce needed. Stacked on top of my medallions were three jumbo shrimp, cooked to perfection.
I also ordered one of the small plates, just to see how small they really were. I ordered steak and eggs but received steak and EGG. That’s right. Only one poached egg sat atop my steak medallions. The dish was delicious, but I found the minor error on the menu quite funny. This dish, just like my “Surf and Turf,” came with bits of short rib. No matter how good my entrées were, the short rib stole the show.
Owner and executive chef Tres Jackson sat down with me and explained the process of creating the perfect short rib. He said the meat comes through the front door and immediately begins the two-day, in-house process. The ribs are slow-cooked to perfection. Literally, the rib meat dissolves on your tongue with a tangy, sweet flavor. My only regret at Epiphany was not ordering the short ribs on a big plate.
After my meal, I spoke with Jackson about the restaurant itself. He mentioned how the menu changes based on what the farms deliver that day and how the lack of a freezer guarantees the freshest meats for the customers. He pointed to the big chalkboard in the dining room that listed each of the farms supplying ingredients and told me he knew almost every farmer by name. He told me how he loves to put progressive dishes on the menu, even if they don’t sell very well. He even let me sample a goat cheese dessert that wasn’t on the menu. So after all of this, I had an epiphany: Jackson, along with everyone who works at his restaurant, loves food… and he and the staff aren’t afraid to show it.